5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

Hi everyone, it's been a few weeks since I last posted, so I thought this would be a nice little writing exercise. First though, an update on my sewing escapades! My sewing machine has been home from the shop for a week or so now (it had a burr somewhere), and it's been getting plenty of use. I'm knee deep in the middle of a burgundy and black 3-tiered corset skirt with a Swiss dot tulle 6-tiered back bustle, and I've been getting started on different projects for the RI Lolita swap meet on the 30th. I hope to have 4-5 pairs of cotton and lace bloomers done for sale, as well as a special bolero and headband set that I plan on selling with my AP Fruity Cafe JSK. In short, I'm going to be very, very busy between now and the 30th!

On with the post!

5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

I'm just gonna go ahead and preface this by saying that these are things that I find personally indispensable. Other seamstresses may get along fine without one or two of them, but in general I find that these are excellent things to own. 

1. A Tuned-up, Fully Functional Sewing Machine

 Having a functioning sewing machine may seem like a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised how long a novice sewer can go with a poorly-running machine. I did, for almost a year, and let me tell you how I wish I'd just had my machine serviced to begin with! If you've just bought a brand-new, off-the-shelf machine, chances are good that it'll run just fine. Well, maybe (see my post on buying sewing machines). On the other hand, if you've inherited a sewing machine from a relative, or bought one second-hand from a rummage sale or Craigslist, do yourself a favor and take it to your local Sew & Vac place to have it tuned up. All sewing machines, like cars, need regular maintenance. If your sewing machine has been handled roughly, sat for a long time, used heavily prior over a long period of time, or is just plain old, it probably needs to be serviced. Sewing machines can develop a bevy of issues over time, all of which can seriously impact your ability to sew. Even under normal use, problems such as burrs and timing issues can occur. If your machine is giving you lots of problems, and you can hardly spend an hour without becoming frustrated over its behavior, then you should probably have it looked at. It's also worth mentioning that all sewing machine owners should try in earnest to familiarize themselves with their sewing machine manual, and should learn how to properly thread and operate their particular machine before embarking on any big project. If you bought a vintage or used machine that no longer has its original manual, don't panic; many sewing machine manuals can be found online for less than $15. 

2. A Sewing Machine with Zig-zag Stitch or Overlock Serger

This number can (and should) totally overlap with #1 on my list. The purpose of owning a sewing machine with zig-zag stitch capabilities is so that you can finish raw edges, and work with knit fabrics (like what cutsews are made of). If you look at almost any piece of brand clothing, you'll notice that the edges of the seams have been neatly cast over with thread. This is called an overlock stitch, and it prevents the fabric cased within from fraying. Finishing fabric edges in this manner not only gives your garment a neat, professional look, but also goes a long way to prevent your work from unravelling over time. To get a true overlock stich, you will generally need to purchase an overlock serger. Sergers are specialized sewing machines that function solely to finish raw edges and sew knit garments. Most sergers can cut as they sew, and will have spaces for 3 or 4 spools of thread, which are used simultaneously. Sergers are usually a little pricey, and unfortunately can't totally replace your regular sewing machine. Have no fear, though, because there is an alternative! Most sewing machines out there these days will have a zig-zag stitch, and some even have a functional overlock stich. Using a regular sewing machine, you can achieve a similar finished edge simply by setting your stitch length to a low setting, and your stitch width to the highest setting. If you are in the market to purchase a sewing machine, specifically a vintage model, make sure the machine you purchase has a zig-zag stich. A simple straight-stich machine won't have those capabilities, and you'll be stuck with a machine that can only do one thing: sew a straight stich. :P

3.  A Dress Form

My dress form has been one of the most useful tools in my sewing stash, and I can't imagine doing projects without it. If you only ever sew skirts, then you may be able to get away without owing a dress form, but I've found that JSKs and OPs go much easier when I can pop them on my dress form. The advantage to owning a dress form is that you can place the garment directly on it to check it for fit and to check how it drapes instead of having to try it on every single time you want to change something. A dress form makes it easy to pinn stuff on to see how it looks, and can generally serve as an excellent reference point for how a garment should fit you. Many commercially available dress forms these days are adjustable, and will allow you to set the bust, waist, and hip measurements so that they match or are close to your own. When choosing a dress form, you want to make sure that it is the right size, and is close to your own measurements. Decorative, non-adjustable dress forms from places like Home Goods are great to display clothing on, but generally aren't too good for sewing purposes unless their measurements are the same as your own. If you're balking at the notion of spending $80-$200 on what's essentially a mannequin, don't fret because you can easily and cheaply make your own out of a large roll of duct tape and an old, oversized t-shirt. Yes, duct tape. You can make a duct tape dress form for under $20, in about an hour, with some help from a friend. Unless you change sizes drastically, your duct tape dress form will be an exact copy of your body measurements, and should suit all your sewing purposes. After you've made and stuffed your dress form, you can always lolify it by decoupaging pretty wrapping paper or fabric over the whole thing. P.S., don't do a duct tape dress form when you're bloated. I did mine once during "That Time," and it has a waistline measurement that's a full inch bigger than my usual size! D:

4. A Gathering Foot / Ruffler Attachment

I ~Love~ my ruffler. Well, maybe that's a little exaggeration, but I am especially fond of it. Why? Because it generally saves me a lot of time and frustration, and makes my work look a lot more professional. For about $15, you can go on Ebay and purchase a universal ruffler foot. Once you get it, it may take you a little time to learn how to use it, but once you've got the hang of it, you'll be so glad you bought it! Instead of spending hours trying to gather a skirt waist by hand, I can put it through my ruffler in a few minutes, and have a beautiful, even ruffle throughout. Ruffler foots also make small pleats as well as ruffles, and are infinitely useful in Lolita sewing. 

5. A Good pair of Sewing Shears

Leave that pair of 3M all-purpose scissors aside for cutting patterns. For fabric, you'll want something a little more suitable. Unless you have a very sharp pair of regular scissors, chances are good that you've probably experienced some difficulty cutting fabric. I used to get frustrated trying to cut even basic quilting cotton with the scissors that I had lying around the house. Those scissors were always too dull and tended to do my fabric more harm than good. I got used to trying to find a "sweet spot" with the scissors, because cutting at the wrong part of the blade would sometimes snag and ruin my fabric. When my mom saw my troubles and had me try out her sewing shears, I was instantly converted. Sewing shears are super sharp, and cut through fabric like a hot knife cuts through butter. Most sewing shears even have a bent handle, which facilitates cutting fabric on a flat surface. I can't imagine going back to regular scissors, and I recommend sewing shears to all of my sewing friends. A nice pair of shears will run you between $25 and $50, but I've found that they're really worth the investment. If your blades ever get dull, (which when used properly, they rarely do) you can often take them to local sewing stores to have them sharpened. One caveat to sewing shears: don't use them to cut paper. You might be tempted to use them to cut your patterns out, but don't. Paper, even fine tissue paper, really dulls blades, and can quickly ruin a good pair of shears.