The Road to RuffleCon Part II

Well, folks, it looks like I'm going to have a busy and (hopefully) productive next 146 days. What's in one hundred and forty six days, you ask? RuffleCon. And why am I going to be so busy? Yes, that's right! You guessed it! Atelier Sucré has been officially accepted as a designer for RuffleCon 2015's Fashion Show.

Over the next five months, I will be creating 4 to 5 distinct looks for the show. As mentioned in my previous post, my theme will be an 18th Century take on Lolita fashion, and I will be responsible for at least 3 dresses, 3 bonnets or headpieces, probably one ouji coordinate, and a bunch of other accessories/garments. I hope to begin production of these garments immediately, assuming that I have no serious problems in procuring the remainder of the materials that I need. Currently, I do not have the rose silk nor the special scalloped pinking blade that I require for my Mme. de Pompadour dress, and I will also need to find coordinating ribbons and trim to match whatever I find. I also need to get my <insert many curse words here> serger up and running, and get a mat for my rotary cutter. This will be a very big endeavour on my part, so I want to make sure that I'm fully prepared to take it on.

As I work on things I will try to keep you updated with photos of my progress! Thanks for reading!

NYC Adventures

Last week, I found myself perusing the stores of NYC's Garment District with my friend Jessi. We were on a mission looking for silk and trims. Jessi is trying to start making floral headdresses, and was seeking out pretty laces; while I was on a quasi-insane quest to find silks for a line of clothing for a fashion show that I hadn't been formally accepted to yet. In particular, I was looking for either dupuioni, shantung, or taffeta in rose, mustard, navy, and white/ivory stripe. While I found a lovely mustard shantung, and a very nice two toned navy taffeta; rose eluded me (and my budget). I found out from Jessi that the fabric stores prefer cash when you're trying to negotiate with them, so that somewhat limited my purchasing power because I was a little financially unprepared, but in the end, I wound up with some great deals! The best probably came from Hamed Fabrics, where I got 6 yards of a beautiful semi-sheer ivory striped silk for only $10/yd!

Semi sheer striped silk  |  Mustard shantung and navy taffeta

A lot of the shops had fabrics much glitzier (and in some cases, gaudier) than I needed, and looking through the piles was a little like finding a needle in a haystack. There was so much to see that sometimes, I missed things completely, only to have Jessi point it out to my oblivious self. I disappeared into some stacks of fabric more than once to come out empty-handed, but in the end, I came up with some stuff that I'm really happy with. Jessi is an absolute doll, and did most of the haggling for me since I'm really awful at it, so I owe most of my bargain success to her. She also has the patience of a saint, between waiting for me to emerge from the giant fabric piles, and having to deal with some occasionally sleazy sales guys.

My sewing-related haul

As usual, we made the Lolita pilgrimage to BTSSB/Tokyo Rebel, Kinokuniya, and Laduree. I picked up a lovely Innocent World umbrella at Tokyo Rebel, as well as something special at BTSSB. ;) I also got two of my favorite Japanese sewing books, Otome no Sewing vols. 6 & 7, at Kinokuniya, and a small box of macarons at Laduree. 

 

My non-sewing haul (stock photos)

My new parasol is great, and I'm very happy with it. It's nice and compact, and doubles as an umbrella in rainy weather. The macarons, as expected, were delicious! My box consisted of one chocolate, a sea salt caramel, a pistachio, a rose-lychee, a Marie Antoinette tea, a cherry blossom, an orange blossom, and a raspberry! I also got a beautiful little Plaisir Sucre pastry for my husband. He shared some with me when I got back, and it was divine! 

Fooooooood (well, sorta.)

My next update contains some big news, so keep reading, and thanks for stopping by! :)

The Road to RuffleCon

So, if you haven't figured out by now, I'm not much of a blogger. I have trouble remembering to write down my thoughts in a format longer than a Facebook post, but I'd like to try something new for the year ahead. This year, I and my indie brand, Atelier Sucré, have applied to be a designer at the RuffleCon fashion show. If you aren't familiar with RuffleCon, it's the northeast's largest alternative fashion convention, with a heavy focus on Lolita, other J-fahions, Steampunk, and Western Goth.

To qualify for the show, designers must showcase at least 4 looks. I would like to make a line of 18th Century inspired dresses and accessories. If I am accepted to the show, I'll be making 1 Rococo-inspired robe a la anglaise JSK, one chemise a la reine OP, one JSK a la polonaise, a polonaise corset skirt, a bolero, a pierrot jacket, and a redingote jacket between now and October. I may also do a ouji coordinate of breeches and a vest to match one of these. There will also be two bonnets, a canotier, a tricorn, and a bergere for headwear. At least two of these coords are going to be made with silk, and all will be fairly ambitious sewing projects. As I work on my projects, I'd like to document my progress with them here. Since I have approximately 6 months (not including my vacations) to work on these (in addition to looking for full-time work and doing commissions), I've got a mildly ambitious timeline planned.

I am planning to do a mockup of the chemise a la reine by middle April. I have a polyester youryu fabric selected for this that should drape nicely (though a little differently than the silk), and I'm excited to make a copy for myself.

 

By the beginning of May, I'd like to have the majority of my fabric for this project sourced and purchased. Most of what I use will either be pure silk or cotton sateen. I am planning an expedition to the Garment District in New York City with East Coast Pocket Princess' Jessi for an epic fabric hunt sometime at the end of April, and whatever I cannot find there will be purchased locally or online.

 

My first project will be a Mme. de Pompadour inspired Rococo JSK and bolero in rose pink silk with lace engageants, an echelle of ribbons, and scalloped ruffle trim. I'd like this project done by mid June. This will likely take the longest due to the amount of detail work and all the yards of ruffles that I'll have to make. 

My second project will be a fully shirred one piece done in the style of a chemise a la reine. This project will be done entirely in striped white silk and will be paired with a hard-brimmed bonnet. I may create a veil to go with this dress as well, as I ultimately see it being used as a wedding dress. This dress should be the simplest of all of them, and I'd like it to be done by early July at the latest.

My third project will be a JSK a la polonaise (a type of bustle-back dress), with a flounced skirt and perhaps a matching pierrot jacket, like the one in the picture below. I'm not yet sure of the color yet, but it will either be a dusty purple, or French blue. This should be done by mid August.

  

My last project will be a 1790's inspired corset skirt in yellow silk with a redingote, which is a type of jacket that was used for riding. I think I'd really like a tricorn hat with this.  I'd like this project done before I go on vacation in early September.

Any additional time between the end of my vacation and RuffleCon will be dedicated to accessories and remaining millinery work.

I hope you'll stay tuned as I update my blog with WIP shots and other details of my progress.

♡ Kristen

5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

Hi everyone, it's been a few weeks since I last posted, so I thought this would be a nice little writing exercise. First though, an update on my sewing escapades! My sewing machine has been home from the shop for a week or so now (it had a burr somewhere), and it's been getting plenty of use. I'm knee deep in the middle of a burgundy and black 3-tiered corset skirt with a Swiss dot tulle 6-tiered back bustle, and I've been getting started on different projects for the RI Lolita swap meet on the 30th. I hope to have 4-5 pairs of cotton and lace bloomers done for sale, as well as a special bolero and headband set that I plan on selling with my AP Fruity Cafe JSK. In short, I'm going to be very, very busy between now and the 30th!

On with the post!

5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

I'm just gonna go ahead and preface this by saying that these are things that I find personally indispensable. Other seamstresses may get along fine without one or two of them, but in general I find that these are excellent things to own. 

1. A Tuned-up, Fully Functional Sewing Machine

 Having a functioning sewing machine may seem like a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised how long a novice sewer can go with a poorly-running machine. I did, for almost a year, and let me tell you how I wish I'd just had my machine serviced to begin with! If you've just bought a brand-new, off-the-shelf machine, chances are good that it'll run just fine. Well, maybe (see my post on buying sewing machines). On the other hand, if you've inherited a sewing machine from a relative, or bought one second-hand from a rummage sale or Craigslist, do yourself a favor and take it to your local Sew & Vac place to have it tuned up. All sewing machines, like cars, need regular maintenance. If your sewing machine has been handled roughly, sat for a long time, used heavily prior over a long period of time, or is just plain old, it probably needs to be serviced. Sewing machines can develop a bevy of issues over time, all of which can seriously impact your ability to sew. Even under normal use, problems such as burrs and timing issues can occur. If your machine is giving you lots of problems, and you can hardly spend an hour without becoming frustrated over its behavior, then you should probably have it looked at. It's also worth mentioning that all sewing machine owners should try in earnest to familiarize themselves with their sewing machine manual, and should learn how to properly thread and operate their particular machine before embarking on any big project. If you bought a vintage or used machine that no longer has its original manual, don't panic; many sewing machine manuals can be found online for less than $15. 

2. A Sewing Machine with Zig-zag Stitch or Overlock Serger

This number can (and should) totally overlap with #1 on my list. The purpose of owning a sewing machine with zig-zag stitch capabilities is so that you can finish raw edges, and work with knit fabrics (like what cutsews are made of). If you look at almost any piece of brand clothing, you'll notice that the edges of the seams have been neatly cast over with thread. This is called an overlock stitch, and it prevents the fabric cased within from fraying. Finishing fabric edges in this manner not only gives your garment a neat, professional look, but also goes a long way to prevent your work from unravelling over time. To get a true overlock stich, you will generally need to purchase an overlock serger. Sergers are specialized sewing machines that function solely to finish raw edges and sew knit garments. Most sergers can cut as they sew, and will have spaces for 3 or 4 spools of thread, which are used simultaneously. Sergers are usually a little pricey, and unfortunately can't totally replace your regular sewing machine. Have no fear, though, because there is an alternative! Most sewing machines out there these days will have a zig-zag stitch, and some even have a functional overlock stich. Using a regular sewing machine, you can achieve a similar finished edge simply by setting your stitch length to a low setting, and your stitch width to the highest setting. If you are in the market to purchase a sewing machine, specifically a vintage model, make sure the machine you purchase has a zig-zag stich. A simple straight-stich machine won't have those capabilities, and you'll be stuck with a machine that can only do one thing: sew a straight stich. :P

3.  A Dress Form

My dress form has been one of the most useful tools in my sewing stash, and I can't imagine doing projects without it. If you only ever sew skirts, then you may be able to get away without owing a dress form, but I've found that JSKs and OPs go much easier when I can pop them on my dress form. The advantage to owning a dress form is that you can place the garment directly on it to check it for fit and to check how it drapes instead of having to try it on every single time you want to change something. A dress form makes it easy to pinn stuff on to see how it looks, and can generally serve as an excellent reference point for how a garment should fit you. Many commercially available dress forms these days are adjustable, and will allow you to set the bust, waist, and hip measurements so that they match or are close to your own. When choosing a dress form, you want to make sure that it is the right size, and is close to your own measurements. Decorative, non-adjustable dress forms from places like Home Goods are great to display clothing on, but generally aren't too good for sewing purposes unless their measurements are the same as your own. If you're balking at the notion of spending $80-$200 on what's essentially a mannequin, don't fret because you can easily and cheaply make your own out of a large roll of duct tape and an old, oversized t-shirt. Yes, duct tape. You can make a duct tape dress form for under $20, in about an hour, with some help from a friend. Unless you change sizes drastically, your duct tape dress form will be an exact copy of your body measurements, and should suit all your sewing purposes. After you've made and stuffed your dress form, you can always lolify it by decoupaging pretty wrapping paper or fabric over the whole thing. P.S., don't do a duct tape dress form when you're bloated. I did mine once during "That Time," and it has a waistline measurement that's a full inch bigger than my usual size! D:

4. A Gathering Foot / Ruffler Attachment

I ~Love~ my ruffler. Well, maybe that's a little exaggeration, but I am especially fond of it. Why? Because it generally saves me a lot of time and frustration, and makes my work look a lot more professional. For about $15, you can go on Ebay and purchase a universal ruffler foot. Once you get it, it may take you a little time to learn how to use it, but once you've got the hang of it, you'll be so glad you bought it! Instead of spending hours trying to gather a skirt waist by hand, I can put it through my ruffler in a few minutes, and have a beautiful, even ruffle throughout. Ruffler foots also make small pleats as well as ruffles, and are infinitely useful in Lolita sewing. 

5. A Good pair of Sewing Shears

Leave that pair of 3M all-purpose scissors aside for cutting patterns. For fabric, you'll want something a little more suitable. Unless you have a very sharp pair of regular scissors, chances are good that you've probably experienced some difficulty cutting fabric. I used to get frustrated trying to cut even basic quilting cotton with the scissors that I had lying around the house. Those scissors were always too dull and tended to do my fabric more harm than good. I got used to trying to find a "sweet spot" with the scissors, because cutting at the wrong part of the blade would sometimes snag and ruin my fabric. When my mom saw my troubles and had me try out her sewing shears, I was instantly converted. Sewing shears are super sharp, and cut through fabric like a hot knife cuts through butter. Most sewing shears even have a bent handle, which facilitates cutting fabric on a flat surface. I can't imagine going back to regular scissors, and I recommend sewing shears to all of my sewing friends. A nice pair of shears will run you between $25 and $50, but I've found that they're really worth the investment. If your blades ever get dull, (which when used properly, they rarely do) you can often take them to local sewing stores to have them sharpened. One caveat to sewing shears: don't use them to cut paper. You might be tempted to use them to cut your patterns out, but don't. Paper, even fine tissue paper, really dulls blades, and can quickly ruin a good pair of shears.

Sewing Update!

So, it looks like my mad rush of sewing over the past three weeks killed my darling machine. Every time I try to sew, the threads are looping and nesting, and every stitch looks like a miniature disaster. Nothing stays together, and she's basically unusable right now. It looks like it could be a simple bobbin tension issue, but I'm afraid that it could be something much worse. I am definitely going to have to take her in to the Sew & Vac Shack to have her looked at. This all comes on the tail end of a ton of sewing, and I need to take her for service soon, because I have a whole bunch more projects that are suspended without her. 

As I mentioned, this has been a busy, busy month for me and my sewing machine. What I've managed to accomplish over the past month is often more than I do in several months. My first project was altering a vintage 70's cream-colored cotton paisley Gunne Sax dress for use as a Lolita dress. The dress features leg o' mutton zip sleeves, a gathered empire-waist bodice and a tiered skirt, all done in this delicate sheer paisley cotton with Cluny lace accents. I picked up this beauty at my local goth shop, Bedlam after fawning over it for months. Originally, the dress was floor length, like most Gunne Sax dresses of that era, and had a slim A-line lining at the skirt. While I was considering leaving the dress as is for Aristo, I decided I liked the dress much more for Classic Lolita, so I had to shorten it and alter the lining. To accomplish this, I carefully removed the middle tier of the skirt, and reattached the bottom tier to the top. This brought the skirt length to 60 cm, or about 24 inches. The skirt itself was quite voluminous, and had plenty of room for poof, but the lining was a bit too restrictive to fit a good petticoat underneath. To remedy this "problem," I gently removed the skirt lining, and sewed a new one in. My new lining is a gathered, two-tiered attached lining that uses around 2.25 yards of fabric, and has a very full hem circumference - just under 4 yards. Needless to say, it can accommodate a pretty massive petticoat now. >:) I also found a small cluny lace bow from F21 in my hair accessory stash that I thought went perfectly with the dress, so I ended up attaching it to the bodice to add a little extra Lolita flair.

 L: Detail of bodice & fabric; R: Full Dress shot  - Photos courtesy of : Madeline Hatter of The Bloody Tea Party 

I wore my "new" dress on two occasions this month: first to a small RI Lolita meetup at Blithewold Mansion and Arboretum in Bristol (more on that here), and second to Anime Boston. For Anime Boston, I used the leftover fabric from that removed middle tier to make a matching bonnet. The bonnet was my last project before the machine broke. Actually, to be more accurate, the machine broke in the middle of my bonnet, so I've had to hand sew quite a bit of it. I finished the bonnet in a couple hours the night before the con, so I think that I am going to get some more trim from RYCO, and add a couple more details, like matching cream roses, some lace, maybe pearls, and perhaps a big bow on one side of it. My friend Harmony was gracious enough to take a picture of my AB outfit, showing the bonnet in it's full glory. 

Photo courtesy of: Harmony Cloud

My final mad sewing project, which while not Lolita, represents the largest of my efforts this month, and is certainly worth the mention. Over 5 days, taking a grand total of 24 hours of work, I finished an Eternal Sailor Neptune cosplay costume for my dear friend Michiru. My poor Michiru was left in the lurch a week about a week and a half before AB when the young woman she commissioned her outfit from in January told her that it wasn't going to be finished in time, and that she wasn't going to offer any kind of refund. Michiru was really heartbroken, because she was getting married the next week, and AB was going to be her honeymoon. I was super pissed off about the whole thing, so I offered to finish the costume for her in my spare time. The original seamstress priority shipped the raw materials and anything she'd finished back to us on Wed or Thurs, a week before the wedding. We got the box in the mail on Saturday, assessed the contents (two bows and a skirt), and I made a run to Joann's to pick up some remaining materials and thread. I downloaded, cut, and altered the pattern for the fuku bodice on Sunday, and had everything cut out by the end on the night. On Monday after work, I got the separate bodice pieces + lining sewn together, and ripped out the original hemline on the skirt ( one side of the skirt was 15" long, the other side was 19", FML). On Tuesday, my day off, I finished the bodice and the panties, fixed the hemline (yay heat n' bond hem tape to save my ass!), attached the skirt (which, as it turned out, the seamstress made to the wrong measurement), and took everything to Michiru for a fitting. After the fitting, I drafted the sleeves and collapsed in a heap around midnight. On Wednesday, after work all day, I cut and attached the sleeves, drafted the collar, cut and sewed up the collar, and started work on the belt. On Thursday morning, between 6 and 9:30 am, I finished the belt, finished the panties, and made the glove toppers. I don't know how I got it all done, but I did. Parts of the costume (i.e. anything done after 10pm on Wed) weren't 100% up to my standards, but they were wearable, and everything looked good together. Michi was really happy with the result, and it was 100% worth it just to be able to make her smile and be happy. <3 

So, that concludes my tale of crazy sewing for the month. I'm used to popping out a lot of work in a short time, but I don't think my poor machine is. Hopefully, whatever's wrong is a super-cheap, easy fix that won't take me away from her for too long.