Three Prints that I Would Love to See

This week's Lolita Blog Carnival topic is "3 Prints I'd Love to See"! While I'm not officially a member yet, I'd like to follow along for a few weeks to get me back into the habit of posting regularly. The prompts that they give tend to be really excellent, and I like the challenge of making a good reply. :)

Onward!

Print 1: Toile/China Hedgehogs
Yes, crazy person that I am, I want hedgehogs. I think hedgehogs are just the cutest little things, and I think that a print along the lines of Innocent World's Delft Lotta would be the perfect way to make prickly hedgies a little more Lolita. I really like the way that IW does animal illustrations, so I'd want it to be more in their general illustration style. I think a border print featuring a twee little hedgehog with a ribbon around its neck sitting on a patch of grass with little flowers and a pastoral scene in the background would be super cute. Some days I really wish my illustration skills were more up to par just so that I could make it come to life!

Print 2: Bread
I'm not the Bread-chan Anon from BTB, but I would like to see a good bread print out there. Juliette et Justine's most recent attempt at a bread print is not to my liking, especially because well, I find it a little disturbing to have the image of a small boy with the words "yeast foam" right over my crotch. ;) In my version of a bread print, we have a border with a lovely wicker basket filled with baguettes, and croissants and rolls on the ground around it. The rest of the fabric would be striped, and I really like a cream x chocolate color scheme for this.

Print 3: All-over Raspberry Print
What, you really expected me not to post a berry print idea? :P I honestly think that raspberries and blackberries are under-used in Lolita fashion. There are very few prints out there featuring raspberries or blackberries, and most of them are by indie brands. It would really tickle my fancy for a major brand like BABY or Innocent World to release a pretty print with raspberries, vines, flowers, and bows. BABY released the Strawberry and Cherry Print (at right) in 2010, and I'd really like to see raspberries treated in a similar fashion. I know that raspberries aren't as iconic or welcoming as cherries and strawberries, but they are still visually very interesting , and I think that they are deserving of a lot more use than they currently get.

5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

Hi everyone, it's been a few weeks since I last posted, so I thought this would be a nice little writing exercise. First though, an update on my sewing escapades! My sewing machine has been home from the shop for a week or so now (it had a burr somewhere), and it's been getting plenty of use. I'm knee deep in the middle of a burgundy and black 3-tiered corset skirt with a Swiss dot tulle 6-tiered back bustle, and I've been getting started on different projects for the RI Lolita swap meet on the 30th. I hope to have 4-5 pairs of cotton and lace bloomers done for sale, as well as a special bolero and headband set that I plan on selling with my AP Fruity Cafe JSK. In short, I'm going to be very, very busy between now and the 30th!

On with the post!

5 Things Every Beginner Lolita Seamstress Should Own

I'm just gonna go ahead and preface this by saying that these are things that I find personally indispensable. Other seamstresses may get along fine without one or two of them, but in general I find that these are excellent things to own. 

1. A Tuned-up, Fully Functional Sewing Machine

 Having a functioning sewing machine may seem like a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised how long a novice sewer can go with a poorly-running machine. I did, for almost a year, and let me tell you how I wish I'd just had my machine serviced to begin with! If you've just bought a brand-new, off-the-shelf machine, chances are good that it'll run just fine. Well, maybe (see my post on buying sewing machines). On the other hand, if you've inherited a sewing machine from a relative, or bought one second-hand from a rummage sale or Craigslist, do yourself a favor and take it to your local Sew & Vac place to have it tuned up. All sewing machines, like cars, need regular maintenance. If your sewing machine has been handled roughly, sat for a long time, used heavily prior over a long period of time, or is just plain old, it probably needs to be serviced. Sewing machines can develop a bevy of issues over time, all of which can seriously impact your ability to sew. Even under normal use, problems such as burrs and timing issues can occur. If your machine is giving you lots of problems, and you can hardly spend an hour without becoming frustrated over its behavior, then you should probably have it looked at. It's also worth mentioning that all sewing machine owners should try in earnest to familiarize themselves with their sewing machine manual, and should learn how to properly thread and operate their particular machine before embarking on any big project. If you bought a vintage or used machine that no longer has its original manual, don't panic; many sewing machine manuals can be found online for less than $15. 

2. A Sewing Machine with Zig-zag Stitch or Overlock Serger

This number can (and should) totally overlap with #1 on my list. The purpose of owning a sewing machine with zig-zag stitch capabilities is so that you can finish raw edges, and work with knit fabrics (like what cutsews are made of). If you look at almost any piece of brand clothing, you'll notice that the edges of the seams have been neatly cast over with thread. This is called an overlock stitch, and it prevents the fabric cased within from fraying. Finishing fabric edges in this manner not only gives your garment a neat, professional look, but also goes a long way to prevent your work from unravelling over time. To get a true overlock stich, you will generally need to purchase an overlock serger. Sergers are specialized sewing machines that function solely to finish raw edges and sew knit garments. Most sergers can cut as they sew, and will have spaces for 3 or 4 spools of thread, which are used simultaneously. Sergers are usually a little pricey, and unfortunately can't totally replace your regular sewing machine. Have no fear, though, because there is an alternative! Most sewing machines out there these days will have a zig-zag stitch, and some even have a functional overlock stich. Using a regular sewing machine, you can achieve a similar finished edge simply by setting your stitch length to a low setting, and your stitch width to the highest setting. If you are in the market to purchase a sewing machine, specifically a vintage model, make sure the machine you purchase has a zig-zag stich. A simple straight-stich machine won't have those capabilities, and you'll be stuck with a machine that can only do one thing: sew a straight stich. :P

3.  A Dress Form

My dress form has been one of the most useful tools in my sewing stash, and I can't imagine doing projects without it. If you only ever sew skirts, then you may be able to get away without owing a dress form, but I've found that JSKs and OPs go much easier when I can pop them on my dress form. The advantage to owning a dress form is that you can place the garment directly on it to check it for fit and to check how it drapes instead of having to try it on every single time you want to change something. A dress form makes it easy to pinn stuff on to see how it looks, and can generally serve as an excellent reference point for how a garment should fit you. Many commercially available dress forms these days are adjustable, and will allow you to set the bust, waist, and hip measurements so that they match or are close to your own. When choosing a dress form, you want to make sure that it is the right size, and is close to your own measurements. Decorative, non-adjustable dress forms from places like Home Goods are great to display clothing on, but generally aren't too good for sewing purposes unless their measurements are the same as your own. If you're balking at the notion of spending $80-$200 on what's essentially a mannequin, don't fret because you can easily and cheaply make your own out of a large roll of duct tape and an old, oversized t-shirt. Yes, duct tape. You can make a duct tape dress form for under $20, in about an hour, with some help from a friend. Unless you change sizes drastically, your duct tape dress form will be an exact copy of your body measurements, and should suit all your sewing purposes. After you've made and stuffed your dress form, you can always lolify it by decoupaging pretty wrapping paper or fabric over the whole thing. P.S., don't do a duct tape dress form when you're bloated. I did mine once during "That Time," and it has a waistline measurement that's a full inch bigger than my usual size! D:

4. A Gathering Foot / Ruffler Attachment

I ~Love~ my ruffler. Well, maybe that's a little exaggeration, but I am especially fond of it. Why? Because it generally saves me a lot of time and frustration, and makes my work look a lot more professional. For about $15, you can go on Ebay and purchase a universal ruffler foot. Once you get it, it may take you a little time to learn how to use it, but once you've got the hang of it, you'll be so glad you bought it! Instead of spending hours trying to gather a skirt waist by hand, I can put it through my ruffler in a few minutes, and have a beautiful, even ruffle throughout. Ruffler foots also make small pleats as well as ruffles, and are infinitely useful in Lolita sewing. 

5. A Good pair of Sewing Shears

Leave that pair of 3M all-purpose scissors aside for cutting patterns. For fabric, you'll want something a little more suitable. Unless you have a very sharp pair of regular scissors, chances are good that you've probably experienced some difficulty cutting fabric. I used to get frustrated trying to cut even basic quilting cotton with the scissors that I had lying around the house. Those scissors were always too dull and tended to do my fabric more harm than good. I got used to trying to find a "sweet spot" with the scissors, because cutting at the wrong part of the blade would sometimes snag and ruin my fabric. When my mom saw my troubles and had me try out her sewing shears, I was instantly converted. Sewing shears are super sharp, and cut through fabric like a hot knife cuts through butter. Most sewing shears even have a bent handle, which facilitates cutting fabric on a flat surface. I can't imagine going back to regular scissors, and I recommend sewing shears to all of my sewing friends. A nice pair of shears will run you between $25 and $50, but I've found that they're really worth the investment. If your blades ever get dull, (which when used properly, they rarely do) you can often take them to local sewing stores to have them sharpened. One caveat to sewing shears: don't use them to cut paper. You might be tempted to use them to cut your patterns out, but don't. Paper, even fine tissue paper, really dulls blades, and can quickly ruin a good pair of shears.

Weighing in on the replica debate

Right now, replicas are a very hot topic in the world of Lolita, and an extremely divisive one at that. Recently, the moderators of the EGL online community enacted a full ban on the discussion and sale of replicas of "original prints, original screen prints, and brand logo- and character-shaped items," upon request from a representative of one of the major Brands (who wisely requested to remain anonymous to the public). This decision has caused considerable uproar within the community, and will likely have a major impact, both on the sales comm, and on the main EGL community. EGL has, of late, been fairly awash with reviews of replicas, requests for reviews of replicas, and discussion of where and who to buy them from. For some, this discussion is useful and interesting; for others, it has become an irritation and an embarrassment. EGL has become divided into two distinct camps, with little impartiality or tolerance from either side.

At the root of all of this is the discussion of the legality and morality of purchasing replicas. While some items (such as shoes and bags, and non-printed items with a distinctive cut or silhouette) fall into a legal grey area that allow them to be legally replicated even though they are direct copies, other items are patently illegal to replicate. Simply put, all replicas of prints, brand logos, and brand characters are illegal in any country party to the Berne Convention (establishes international copyright law). This includes China, where the vast majority of these prints and items are replicated, and Japan, where the original copyrighted items are produced. While China is party to the Berne Convention, lax enforcement of copyright laws make it easy for manufacturers such as OoJia (who operates on Facebook), and Dream Of Lolita (a TaoBao seller) to crank out inexpensive, custom-sized knock-offs of the latest and most popular brand print dresses, socks, head-bows, and bags.

These replicas, though technically illegal, appeal to a wide crowd of Lolitas, including Lolitas who are unable to afford or find the original item, and plus-sized Lolitas who are unable to fit into brand measurements. Many Lolitas who cannot afford Brand prices, or fit into their somewhat restrictive measurements, feel very alienated by the major Brands, and feel that replicas are the only option they have to wear the prints and dresses that they desire. Some feel that Brands should do more to accommodate their Western clientele, and others feel that they are in fact, entitled, as Lolitas to be able to wear the prints that brands produce, regardless of size or legality. This brings up the point of whether or not it is morally acceptable to purchase replicas, given their illegality, and whether or not the Lolita community as a whole should condone the practice. As expected in any debate, there is a strong voice opposing the sale of replicas. Those who are staunchly anti-replica feel that the purchase and commission of replicas is an immoral act, and that the girls who choose to purchase replicas are perpetuating a cycle of intellectual property theft that ultimately takes money away from the Brands, and hurts the artists whose prints appear on replicated clothing. 

Also as expected in any major internet debate, tempers flare, flame wars happen, feelings are hurt, and wank is created. Girls in the pro-replica camp are branded as being "fatty-chans," "thieves," "entitled," and "immoral." Girls in the anti-replica camp are branded as being "elitists," "brandwhores," "rich bitches," and "spoilsports." Every mean or negative stereotype in the EGL lexicon is being bandied about, and nothing good comes of it. I, personally think that none of these labels are necessarily true, and that they shouldn't be used to blanket a whole group (only individuals). Frankly, from my view of things, on both sides of the debate, a lot of girls are being rude, ill-tempered, and incredibly bitchy and butthurt.

Thus far, throughout this article, I've tried to stay as impartial as possible. This is how I tend to deal with any major debatable topic that I don't see as a major personal priority. For me, replicas are not a major personal priority. This isn't to say that I don't have an opinion on them, though. If you want my opinion, read on. If not, well, skip the whole next paragraph. :P

I have never purchased a print replica in the past, and I don't plan on doing so in the future. For me, if an item is too expensive or rare to own (read: grossly inflated price on the 2ndhand market, and super hard to find, too), then I really don't need it. Likewise, if I can't afford a print right when it comes out, even if I'm super in love with it (Cherish My Juicy Cherry anyone?), I'll wait a bit and stalk the sales comm or Y!J until it comes up and I can afford it. Because I can fit into most brand (most, not all), I'd rather purchase an original item, and have the satisfaction knowing that the artist who created my garment was compensated for their work, even if I wasn't the first buyer. In this way, I like to show my support and appreciation for the brands that have had a major impact shaping the hobby that I love so much. Being a RI Lolita with a fairly low tolerance for drama (my community has officially banned it), even though I ultimately disapprove of replicas, I'm not going to judge or condemn anyone who purchases them. Even if replicas are illegal, people have their own reasons for buying them, and they do so at their own risk. It poses no threat or risk to me, so I'd just as soon live and let live. While replicas can hurt the Brands, I feel that the real onus is on the people who manufacture them, because they are ones who directly profit from them. Yes, replica manufacturers make replicas them because people want them, but take away the source, and you take away the real problem. There are also many lovely alternatives to replicas, and many of the TaoBao and indie Lolita brands have been coming out with absolutely stellar original prints and designs that can be custom made, usually for 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of a similar Brand item. I'll probably be showcasing some of these in the next few weeks.  //My2Cents